It is nearly impossible to avoid the climate question today. It appears everywhere — in news feeds, around the dinner table and, increasingly, even in the whisky glass. Because while many of us like to think of whisky as a brief escape from the world’s concerns, it is, of course, not detached from reality.
Whisky may be tradition, craftsmanship and pleasure, but it is also agriculture, energy, transport and raw materials. In other words, it faces precisely the same challenges as the rest of the world. The subject is vast and complex, but I have tried to take a closer look at some of the key areas where malt and the environment intersect.
Peat — the soul of smoke and a climate paradox
Peat is probably one of the most romanticised raw materials in the whisky world (water aside, perhaps), yet also one of the most debated from an environmental perspective. It forms slowly — sometimes painfully slowly — growing anywhere from a few millimetres to roughly ten centimetres per year. In Sweden, many peat layers are around two thousand years old, while some may be closer to ten thousand.
Here at home, peat extraction takes place on artificially drained land in order to protect natural ecosystems. In Scotland, the situation is quite different. Roughly a fifth of the landmass is covered by peat, making it both a central resource and an environmental concern. What makes the issue particularly sensitive is the role peatlands play as powerful carbon sinks, storing roughly twice as much carbon dioxide as forests. When peatlands are damaged or dry out, that stored carbon risks being released.
Around a third of Scotland’s peatland has already been affected by agriculture and drainage. At the same time, extensive restoration efforts are underway, and in some areas demand from the whisky industry has led to restrictions on peat cutting.
The picture, however, is not entirely bleak. Peat reserves remain substantial and, combined with restoration work, there are indications that peat is regenerating faster than it is being harvested in certain areas. Moreover, many maltings have begun working more efficiently with how peat is used. Through improved combustion and finer milling, it is possible to generate more smoke from smaller quantities — effectively achieving the same flavour profile with reduced resource use.
Barley — tradition, technology and the perpetual GMO debate
If peat is emotionally charged, barley is at least as ideologically loaded. The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) highlights the need for climate-resilient crops and innovation that strengthens sustainable agriculture. That sounds perfectly reasonable… until the discussion arrives at the three letters that tend to divide both industry and consumers: GMO.
Supporters point to higher yields, reduced chemical usage and the potential for lower climate impact. Critics worry about unforeseen consequences and long-term ecological effects. As is often the case, the truth likely lies somewhere in between.
At the same time, a near-opposite movement is unfolding within the whisky world, with heritage barley varieties being revived. Here, the focus is as much on biodiversity as on identity, history and — perhaps most intriguingly — flavour curiosity. Some have argued that modern breeding prioritised resilience and yield at the expense of flavour, potentially influencing the character of the spirit itself.
One such voice is Mark Reynier, founder of Waterford Distillery, which has – if I understand correctly – entered receivership. Whatever one thinks of this eccentric figure, when I interviewed him a few years ago he put it like this: – One of the things we discovered was that there was very little flavour difference between modern barley varieties because breeding over the years focused on yield, climate resilience and disease resistance — barley flavour was never really investigated.
Whichever direction the industry ultimately takes, sustainability is clearly shaping the market. Organic bottlings are becoming increasingly common, and distilleries such as Benromach, Spirit of Hven and Loch Lomond demonstrate that environmental ambition and quality do not necessarily conflict. The question, perhaps, is what consumers are willing to pay for environmentally conscious malt at a time when alcohol consumption is declining, living costs are rising and warehouses around the world are brimming with ageing spirit.
Water and heat — where real progress is happening
Energy remains one of whisky production’s most significant climate factors, and it is here that some of the most tangible changes are taking place. The SWA’s goal of energy self-sufficiency by 2040 is ambitious, yet far from unrealistic. Many distilleries are already replacing fossil fuels, recovering energy and using by-products as fuel. For some, this involves major investment; for others, it is about making smarter use of existing resources.
Andrew Brown of Bunnahabhain describes the development clearly: – We have installed a biomass boiler and a wood-fired boiler. All by-products from the distillery will be burned in this way as part of our journey towards net zero carbon emissions. It is equivalent to removing every car on Islay, he says proudly.
Heat recovery is also becoming increasingly important. Swedish distillery Agitator offers a compelling example of how waste heat can become a local resource, with hot water from production used to heat both facilities and nearby homes. At Speyburn, Euan Henderson emphasises that progress in this area is simply part of the distillery’s future:
– We are doing this through innovation, investment and finding smarter, more sustainable ways to make our whisky. Speyburn, for example, was the first distillery in the Inver House group to be equipped with a TVR system (Thermal Vapour Recompression), improving energy efficiency and reducing emissions. We are also using cleaner fuels to power production and becoming more energy efficient for every litre of alcohol we produce.
Local and global — whisky in a shrinking world
Transport and packaging form the next major piece of the puzzle. Lighter bottles, alternative materials and greener logistics are increasingly part of the conversation. Meanwhile, the surge in distillery numbers since the turn of the millennium has reshaped the landscape. More producers mean greater innovation, broader perspectives and a younger audience that often brings stronger environmental awareness. In some cases, technical solutions are now viewed as just as compelling as historical production methods.
Yet expansion has its drawbacks. Increased competition drives producers to reach more distant markets, inevitably raising the climate impact of transportation. At the same time, more distilleries also create more local alternatives, allowing consumers to choose whisky produced significantly closer to home than was possible only a few decades ago.
A few final reflections
In the end, whisky remains a luxury. There is no real way around that, no matter how much we romanticise the drink. Perhaps that is precisely why sustainability becomes so interesting in this context. When something is not essential for survival, how it is produced arguably matters even more.
Whisky is not necessary for life — but it certainly makes life more enjoyable, at least in my view. And in a world where the climate question can sometimes feel overwhelming, there is something quietly reassuring in seeing even a deeply traditional industry evolve.
If progress continues in this direction, there is every chance that the whisky of the future will not only taste good but feel better to enjoy as well. A slightly lighter environmental footprint — without sacrificing pleasure — is, after all, a rather appealing combination, wouldn’t you agree?
